The Morning Glory Festival That Stole My Heart, A Guide to Tokyo’s Iriya Asagao-ichi 2025

My Mother’s Morning Glory Memory

Every summer when I was a child, my mother would plant morning glories in our countryside home. Deep reds, blues, light blues, and pale pinks – these weren’t just flowers to us six siblings. They were the ingredients for our magical “color water shop.”

“Welcome! We have delicious color water!” my older sister would call out, using small stones as play money. We’d gather freshly bloomed flowers and create vibrant “drinks” in glass cups that sparkled in the morning sun. Though we couldn’t actually drink them, their beauty filled our hearts with joy.

My mother would watch us play while hanging laundry, a gentle smile on her face. Looking back now, I realize those mornings – children covered in sweat, laughing together until the flowers wilted in the heat – were her treasures.

Mother passed away years ago, and we siblings have our own families now. But every summer, I plant morning glories in my small Tokyo home. This year, I’m growing three special varieties: Danjuro, Akatsuki-no-Yuki, and Edo-no-Asazora. And every July, when I visit the Iriya Morning Glory Festival, I feel summer truly begin.

What Makes Iriya Asagao-ichi So Special?

The Iriya Morning Glory Festival (入谷朝顔市) is more than just a flower market – it’s a living piece of Edo period culture that has enchanted Tokyo for over 200 years. For three days each July (always July 6-8, regardless of the day of the week), this quiet neighborhood transforms into a celebration of summer’s arrival.

Why Morning Glories Matter to the Japanese

Morning glories (asagao in Japanese, literally “morning face”) arrived in Japan around the 8th century as medicinal plants brought by envoys from China. But during the Edo period (1603-1868), something magical happened. These simple flowers became an obsession for everyone from samurai to merchants, who competed to breed the most unusual varieties.

The appeal? Morning glories bloom at dawn and fade by noon, embodying the Japanese aesthetic of mono no aware – the bittersweet beauty of impermanence. Each morning brings new flowers, a daily renewal that resonates deeply with Japanese sensibility.

Your 2025 Visitor’s Guide

Essential Information

Dates: July 6-8, 2025
Hours: 5:00 AM – 11:00 PM
Location: Around Iriya Kishimojin Temple (入谷鬼子母神), Taito Ward
Nearest Stations:
JR Uguisudani Station (3-minute walk)
Tokyo Metro Iriya Station (right at the exit)
Admission: Free
What to Bring: Cash (most vendors don’t accept cards), camera, hand fan

What to Expect

Imagine over 120 vendors lining the streets with thousands of morning glory plants, each more beautiful than the last. The festival attracts about 300,000 visitors over three days, creating an atmosphere that’s both festive and surprisingly intimate.

The real magic happens early. At 5 AM, when the festival opens, you’ll see morning glories in full bloom – deep purples, brilliant blues, delicate pinks, and even the rare brown “Danjuro” variety that looks like burnished leather.

Three Perfect Times to Visit

Dawn Patrol (5:00-7:00 AM): The Photographer’s Dream

This is when I always go. The morning light is soft, the flowers are fully open, and the vendors have time to chat. You’ll hear them call out “Irasshaimase!” (Welcome!) as they water their plants and arrange their displays.

Why go early:

See the flowers at their peak beauty
Cooler temperatures (crucial in July!)
Smaller crowds mean better photos
Vendors happy to share growing tips (even with limited English)

Festival Mode (11:00 AM-2:00 PM): The Cultural Experience

At 11 AM, the street becomes pedestrian-only, and the festival truly comes alive. Food stalls appear selling shaved ice (kakigori), grilled squid, and ramune (traditional soda). Families arrive, children point excitedly at the flowers, and the atmosphere becomes pure matsuri (festival).

What you’ll find:

Street food and drinks
Traditional crafts and souvenirs
The fullest festival atmosphere
More English-speaking visitors to help translate

Evening Glow (7:00-9:00 PM): The Romantic Stroll

As darkness falls, paper lanterns illuminate the stalls. The morning glories have closed their blooms, but the evening brings a different magic. Couples stroll hand-in-hand, office workers stop by after work, and the pace becomes leisurely.

Evening perks:

Gorgeous lantern lighting for photos
Cooler temperatures
More intimate atmosphere
Possible discounts on plants (though you can’t take them abroad)

What You Can (and Can’t) Take Home

The Hard Truth About Plants

I know it’s tempting, but you cannot take morning glory plants out of Japan due to agricultural regulations. The vendors understand this and won’t be offended if you just come to look and photograph.

Souvenirs You CAN Take

Instead, look for these authentic keepsakes:

Tenugui (hand towels) with morning glory designs (¥500-1,500)
Uchiwa (flat fans) perfect for summer (¥300-800)
Furoshiki (wrapping cloths) with asagao patterns (¥1,000-3,000)
Postcards and prints by local artists (¥100-500)
Wind chimes (furin) with painted morning glories (¥800-2,000)

Making the Most of Your Visit

Photography Tips

Morning glories are incredibly photogenic, but remember:

Always ask before photographing vendors (a smile and gesture usually works)
Don’t touch the flowers – oils from hands can damage them
Early morning provides the best natural light
Look for dewdrops on petals for magical shots

Basic Japanese Phrases

umimasen (soo-mee-mah-sen) – Excuse me
Kirei desu ne (kee-ray dess neh) – It’s beautiful
Shashin, ii desu ka? (sha-sheen, ee dess kah?) – May I take a photo?
Arigato gozaimasu (ah-ree-gah-toh go-zai-mahs) – Thank you

Combine with Nearby Attractions

Make a full day of it:

Ueno Park (10 minutes by train) – Museums, zoo, and more festivals
Asakusa (15 minutes) – Sensoji Temple and traditional shopping
Tokyo Skytree (20 minutes) – Modern contrast to traditional festival

Why This Festival Touches Hearts

The Iriya Morning Glory Festival isn’t really about buying flowers. It’s about celebrating summer’s arrival, connecting with tradition, and experiencing the warmth of Japanese festival culture.

Even with language barriers, vendors and visitors find ways to communicate through smiles, gestures, and shared appreciation for the beautiful morning glories. The festival embodies the spirit of omotenashi (Japanese hospitality) – vendors patiently help foreign visitors understand the flowers’ beauty, even if they can’t take them home.

When I walk through the festival and see visitors from around the world marveling at hundreds of morning glories blooming in a Tokyo street, I think of my mother. She would have loved knowing that this simple summer tradition brings joy to people across cultures and generations.

Planning Your Visit

Getting There

From Uguisudani Station (JR Yamanote Line):

Exit through South Exit
Turn right and walk along Kototoi-dori
3-minute walk to the festival area

From Iriya Station (Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line):

Take Exit 1 or 2
You’re already there!

Accessibility Note

The streets can be crowded and uneven. Iriya Station has elevators, but Uguisudani Station’s South Exit has only stairs (elevator available at North Exit with a longer walk).

Final Tips

Bring cash (¥3,000-5,000 for souvenirs and food)
Wear comfortable shoes Download Google Translate app offline
Stay hydrated in July heat
Don’t miss the temple itself – it’s beautiful and less crowded

Your Morning Glory Story Awaits

The Iriya Morning Glory Festival isn’t just a flower market – it’s a doorway into Japanese summer culture. Whether you come for Instagram-worthy photos, cultural immersion, or simply to understand why a woman still plants morning glories every year in memory of her mother, you’ll find something special here.

In 2025, as the festival celebrates another year of tradition, what story will you create? Will you be the early riser who catches the dawn bloom? The festival-goer who tries every street food? Or the evening stroller who finds poetry in paper lanterns and closed flowers?

Whatever you choose, know that you’re participating in something precious – a tradition that links the Edo period to today, mothers to daughters, and now, Japan to the world.

See you at the festival! And if you spot a woman photographing three specific varieties – Danjuro, Akatsuki-no-Yuki, and Edo-no-Asazora – that might just be me, continuing my family’s morning glory story.

Quick Reference Box:

When: July 6-8, 2025 (5:00 AM – 11:00 PM)
Where: Iriya, Tokyo (near Ueno)
Cost: Free admission
Must bring: Cash, camera, patience, wonder
Can’t miss: Dawn flowers, temple visit, morning glory crafts
Instagram tags: #IriyaAsagaoichi #朝顔市 #TokyoSummer